Candanchu (HRP Day 13)

July 23, 2023

🌎 Route Map
/images/gr-10/IMG_4935.jpeg

Waking up from camp

Today was a day with an unknown destination, because I wasn’t sure how far I could go. I did know that I wanted to make it to Spain in order to resupply on food, and possibly make it back into France later on.
/images/gr-10/IMG_4941.jpeg

Beautiful morning

As I descended from Arlet, high mountain ridges turned into shaded forest paths. At a river crossing I chose one of two available routes which took me up to a lake where families were having lunch.
/images/gr-10/IMG_4947.jpeg

Ibon de Estanés

I ate my sandwich here and joined up with the GR 11, a long distance path through the Spanish side of the Pyrenees.
/images/gr-10/IMG_4948.jpeg

On the GR 11

The GR 11 felt different from the GR 10. The trail was rougher and less traveled.
/images/gr-10/IMG_4952.jpeg

Dipping into a forest

When I made it to Candanchu, a Spanish ski town, it was 3pm. I had a drink with a German hiker while waiting for the food shop to reopen after their siesta. The town was pretty empty but at least there was lots of jamón in the grocery store!
/images/gr-10/IMG_4954.jpeg

Ski resort at Candanchu

After resupplying, I realized I was not going to make it back into France today. The final part of the day involved some road walking and then a big climb to a lake.

Since I was low on cash, I tried to find an ATM in Astún. In my broken Spanish I asked some locals for help but they were only able to direct me to a wall where there used to be an ATM. Mission failed.

The final climb was windy, and when I arrived at the lake the wind picked up speed. I knew it was a bad idea to pitch my tent here, but I didn’t want to keep hiking. I cooked my dinner and hoped the wind would die down so I could get some sleep.

Refuge d'Arlet to Ibon de Escalar - 27.34km and 1381m gained.