Last night a thunderstorm ripped through the region, causing heavy rain and 70-80km/h winds. It was the scariest night in my tent so far, and at one point I was holding my poles in each hand and hoping the tent wouldn’t blow away. However, after a few hours the wind stopped and only rain continued. I was able to cook dinner, the last of my couscous. After some time even the rain ceased, and the stars came out.
Today I had a long day in distance but easy climbing. I finally ate a breakfast that fueled my morning climb properly! It consisted of a loaf of white bread, a tortilla, with a small container of paté spread which Camille gave me. The ascent to Hourquette d’Ossue only took about an hour and a half.
Here I dropped my pack to in order to climb Petit Vignemale, my first 3000m peak on the route! That may not sound super high, but it is for the Pyrenees, whose highest peak is just over 3400m.
After descending to Refuge de Baysellance, I had some coffee and a really good cake with the last of my euros before I could get more in the ATM at Gavarnie.
The descent down to Gavarnie was long but thankfully not too hot. Waterfalls graced the valley d’Ossou so it was a nice change in scenery from the barren rocky landscapes.
At a junction I decided to take the more direct gravel track instead of the GR 10 which climbs up before descending.
I considered hitching but this road walk actually ended up being nice, with the river roaring in the canyon below me.
Finally I made it to Gavarnie where I ran into John and Adam, two english-speaking hikers I met a few days ago. Jacques was leaving tomorrow so I had dinner with him at the Refuge La Grange de Holle. I also pitched my tent here. I intended to spend 2 nights in Gavarnie to rest up and do some side hikes without a backpack.
Hope the next few days will have good weather for swimming!
Oulettes de Gaube to Petit Vignemale to Gavarnie - 21.08km and 1188m gained, 1815m descended.
In the morning I learned that most people had left their tents to sleep on the floor of the refuge during the storm. I probably would have done the same if I hadn’t chosen a sheltered spot behind the refuge to camp. That was probably what saved me from a soaking last night.

Morning after the storm, Vignemale majestic as ever

Hourquette d'Ossue, 2734m

Petit Vignemale, 3032m. No wind at all at the summit.

Views from the top

A view of the Ossou valley, Brèche de Roland (the small U-shaped notch), visible in the background center left

A hidden waterfall

The road walk

I found a nice swimming hole.

Gavarnie

Gave d'Ossou