Red rock (HRP Day 31)

August 10, 2023

🌎 Route Map
Today marks my one month on the Haute Route Pyrénéene! I have been walking for 31 days and over 500km.
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Incredible views this afternoon!

I slept in at the Refugi Alos d’Isil. For once nobody was making noise in the morning–I was the only person in the room with 20 beds. Around 9:30 I left the village and began walking along the road which led to the national park.
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Morning in Alos d'Isil

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Leaving the village

After a river crossing, the trail started to climb. It was hot, and I think a type of stinky flower was blooming which made the air smell like rotting compost.

When I climbed about 700m up, I reached a meadow where I took a break and got more water from a stream.

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Butterflies everywhere

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Cascades above the meadow

The HRP then led me to some waterfalls, and up a steep gully filled with scree. Luckily the scree did not slide too much under my feet because there was also some grass to hold the terrain in place. Cairns marked the trail well.
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Trail steepened toward the col

It took me 4 hours to reach the Col de Cornella at 2482m.
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Col de Cornella, first of 3 cols today

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Descending to some lakes

From here, I descended a steep and loose hill to some lakes. Continuing on, the scenery changed. As I walked along the path, I saw butterflies flying about, and later by a stream some tiny frogs who had just evolved from tadpole form.
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Tiny frogs

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Third col, viewed from a pond after the second col

The trail continued to ascend to a second col, and a third col. From the latter I could see an expansive blue lake on the other side. I knew I wanted to swim and eat my lunch there.
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Col de Calberante, 2608m

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Lake where I had lunch

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and a swim

After lunch I continued the descent, and the scenery changed once again. Red rocks formed ramps to walk down, and clouds spilled over the crests of peaks along this valley to create a magical effect. Three lakes as smooth as glass appeared down below.
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More glassy blue lakes

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Smooth granite

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A red rock wonderland

I took my time going down toward the lakes. I planned to camp by the Refugi Enric Pujol, which was already in view.
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Refugi Enric Pujol

After reaching the refuge, I noticed that the bivouac spot was tiny and the refuge was also full. I decided to keep going down 50m to the next lake, where I saw a bigger camp spot. I pitched my tent and had plenty of time to stretch, cook dinner, and plan the next three days of hiking (to reach Andorra!)
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Tortellini, mashed potatos, jamón ibérico

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Sunset from camp

Today’s section of the HRP has been one of my favorites. The variety of landscapes blew my mind. Navigation on the route was also so much easier than yesterday.
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The end of a majestic day

Tomorrow should be a relatively easy day!

Alos d'Isil to Estany de Llavera - 13.67km and 1549m gained.