Today marks my one month on the Haute Route Pyrénéene! I have been walking for 31 days and over 500km.
I slept in at the Refugi Alos d’Isil. For once nobody was making noise in the morning–I was the only person in the room with 20 beds. Around 9:30 I left the village and began walking along the road which led to the national park.
After a river crossing, the trail started to climb. It was hot, and I think a type of stinky flower was blooming which made the air smell like rotting compost.
The HRP then led me to some waterfalls, and up a steep gully filled with scree. Luckily the scree did not slide too much under my feet because there was also some grass to hold the terrain in place. Cairns marked the trail well.
It took me 4 hours to reach the Col de Cornella at 2482m.
From here, I descended a steep and loose hill to some lakes. Continuing on, the scenery changed. As I walked along the path, I saw butterflies flying about, and later by a stream some tiny frogs who had just evolved from tadpole form.
The trail continued to ascend to a second col, and a third col. From the latter I could see an expansive blue lake on the other side. I knew I wanted to swim and eat my lunch there.

After lunch I continued the descent, and the scenery changed once again. Red rocks formed ramps to walk down, and clouds spilled over the crests of peaks along this valley to create a magical effect. Three lakes as smooth as glass appeared down below.

I took my time going down toward the lakes. I planned to camp by the Refugi Enric Pujol, which was already in view.
After reaching the refuge, I noticed that the bivouac spot was tiny and the refuge was also full. I decided to keep going down 50m to the next lake, where I saw a bigger camp spot. I pitched my tent and had plenty of time to stretch, cook dinner, and plan the next three days of hiking (to reach Andorra!)
Today’s section of the HRP has been one of my favorites. The variety of landscapes blew my mind. Navigation on the route was also so much easier than yesterday.
Tomorrow should be a relatively easy day!

Incredible views this afternoon!

Morning in Alos d'Isil

Leaving the village
When I climbed about 700m up, I reached a meadow where I took a break and got more water from a stream.

Butterflies everywhere

Cascades above the meadow

Trail steepened toward the col

Col de Cornella, first of 3 cols today

Descending to some lakes

Tiny frogs

Third col, viewed from a pond after the second col

Col de Calberante, 2608m

Lake where I had lunch

and a swim

More glassy blue lakes

Smooth granite

A red rock wonderland

Refugi Enric Pujol

Tortellini, mashed potatos, jamón ibérico

Sunset from camp

The end of a majestic day
Alos d'Isil to Estany de Llavera - 13.67km and 1549m gained.