Today I left camp super late. I kept going back to sleep after waking up, until cows started mooing and splashing in the stream close by. Some got close enough for me to open my tent and shoo them off. It was as if they were telling me stop being lazy and to get going.

The day would start with a long downhill, followed by some towns, and then an undetermined amount of uphill depending on how tired I would be.

An hour in, I reached a large lake where families were playing in the water. I kept going for a bit along the edge of the water until I found a nice secluded spot to jump in. I don’t carry any swimwear so its always awkward swimming nude next to many swimsuit-clad day hikers.When I passed the lake’s dam, a gentle track led me into some trees. The miles passed quickly, and by some shade I stopped to have lunch.Near Bolquère I ran into the two Belgians again. We walked through the forest outside town together, and parted ways when I had to go buy groceries.The small market in Bolquere had a siesta and didn’t reopen until 4pm, so I sat outside eating the rest of my food.After I resupplied, I walked the 5k toward Eyne, the next village in the wide valley.At a railroad, I left the GR 10 and continued through farmland.The weather was looking stormy up high on the hills where I was heading, so I decided to stop in Eyne and have a meal. As I waited for their kitchen to open at 7, I had a couple beers and wrote this trip report.Later I ordered the plat du jour which was veaux cooked in dijon. I loved that it came with vegetables slathered in olive oil—I am getting close to the Mediterranean! It was one of the best dinners I’ve had this trip.

The servers were nice and even offered to let me camp behind the restaurant.

I didn’t want to leave Eyne, but it was time to get going. At 8pm as the sun set, I started the climb out of the town and into a deep, narrow canyon. With my music playing, I moved fast. At 1870m and 1950m, I saw some flat land for camping. Although it was getting dark, I didnt stop.I wanted to get as close to the col as possible to avoid climbing in the heat tomorrow, so I took out my headlamp and continued on.

At 2150m, I saw a tent and realized there was campable ground. I pitched my tent a little further up the trail and went immediately to bed, having already brushed my teeth at the restaurant.

Today felt different in scenery, towns, and food. It was a reminder that I was nearing the end of my journey! It feels like the hardest parts are behind me, and now the pastoral feel, reminiscent of the early days on trail, has returned. I’m learning to slow down and take my time, especially in the tiny villages where life does not respect the rigorous schedule of a HRP hiker. I’m excited for tomorrow, which should be an epic day walking on a high ridgeline.

Vallée de la Grave to Vallée d'Eyne - 31.14km and 854m gained